Finally got the dust off my Hameg I bought from a car boot sale about 2 years ago and forgot about it. I didn't have the space, then moved to a place where I had a garage, set up my little lab, plugged in the scope and checked there was a trace - which there was: good all still working! Closed up for the night and came back next day with some probes donated to me.

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Hooked it up to channel 1 and to the test signal - power on: nothing. Tried to see if I could find the trace again, switched the triggering into AC, twiddled the trigger level till the Trigger LED came on yet no trace on screen. Checked all button's like X10 mag, EXT trigger, all the daft things and still no trace. Remove the probe, knocked the coupling on CH1 to GND, which should produce a flat line and adjusted the X & Y positions to see if i could find a trace - alas: fruitless!

The fact that the trigger LED comes on when I adjust the trigger level means that the signal is there. So I suspect that the display driver could be shot? I have found a service manual (English, kindly shared on another forum): users manual: and have found these posts: EEVBlog - - no conclusion to if he fixed it or not, have PM'd the OP. Badcaps.net - Guy on Badcaps say that the tube may be FUBAR'd - is this likely from what I've described?

It may not be a problem as I have a Kikusui Scope which is just a CRT with X, Y adjust. It works but all that appears is a dot - it needs some signals in the back (i'll post pics if anyone's interested?) I've added a pic attached of when it was working and stuck a sine wave into it. So has anybody else got any advice or had experience they can share fixing this scope? Would save some time.

OK, so I've fibbed: Its a 203-6 not 203-7 somewhat embarrassing, but still managed to get hold of a schematic and there's really not a huge amount of difference to the general block diagram. I googled my scope and looked a the pictures and picked the one that looked closest to mine and took the PN, rather than note the model number down before I left it the other night. - most of its german, but all the schma is there. Anyway I tested some of the voltages the other night, I've made a video, just editing to length.

But the jist of it is that I've tested the heater filament voltage, the intensity control voltage, and the filament to cathode (K?) voltage and they all appear to be as expected. (If you look at page 13 of the PDF) I've been measuring them differentially with a cheapo-meter on the PCB on the back of the tube. So measuring between -1877V and -1900V you would expect a 23V difference - which is what I got. Topo Schweiz V3 Rapidshare. Along with 6.3V AC on heater filament and about 33V from intensity control pot.

The focus contol is a bit tricky and need to think a bit more carefully as the control pot is part of a large string of resistors connected to -1900V and GND. So it think the best way of measuring this is to work out the voltage expected across the focus pot and measure the wiper from one end of the pot. Your also probably thinking: 'why the hell are you looking at the HV stuff first!?'

- well why not, gotta start somewhere, plus it was the most easily accessible place to start! Which is actually somewhat concerning: you'd expect the HV to be the LEAST accessible! Once I get the video done I pop it up here. I measured points D3 & D4 last night and fitted a spindle to the intensity pot (I removed the old spindle and just stuck a self tapper in the hole where the spindle was! Does the job!) and checked the intensity voltage levels whilst adjusting the the pot as well as testing the focus voltage levels whilst adjusting the focus pot. • Intensity range (measured between -1900V and pin 5 on back of CRT PCB) - 22V to 42V DC approx • Focus Range (Measured between -1900V and pin 6 on back of CRT board - 5.4V to about 12V DC • D4 to 0V - 88V DC approx • D3 to 0V - 64V DC approx NOTE: on the schematic, pg. 12, y final amplifier - points D4 and D3 are noted below each trace as ca +75V.